The beer market dynamics in Russia is approaching zero, yet major brewers are divided into those who developed considerably in 2017 and those who considerably reduced their volumes. For instance, company Efes has managed to substantially extend their sales due to restrained pricing policy and activity in the modern trade. Heineken has also demonstrated an excellent performance promoted by significant increase of advertisement budgets launching a non-alcohol sort of the title brand and unusual activity in the economy market segment. Carlsberg and AB InBev have been focusing on margins and lost a market share of their inexpensive brands. Serious dependence on PET package and mass enthusiasm about Zhigulevskoe have negatively impacted the most of big regional brewers, that have been for the first time pressed by the leaders in the key sales channels, especially in Volga and Central regions. In the small business there has been a noticeable slowdown in appearing of new restaurant breweries, yet the number of craft breweries has been growing rapidly. In 2018, the beer market is likely to grow a little, while the share of AB InBev Efes may decrease due to the integration. ...
“Catalogue of Russian Beer Producers 2018” includes 1070 businesses ranging from large subsidiaries of international companies to rather small restaurant and craft microbreweries.The catalogue includes 32 large breweries, 75 regional breweries, 693 industrial mini- and microbreweries as well as 270 restaurant breweries. ...
Global hop marketA local alternative to mass beer suggested by independent brewers has been successful and is now altering the global market. Beer is becoming more diversified, so transnational companies have to accept the new game rules and to switch focus to young and fast growing markets. All these processes increased the demand for aroma and bitter hop as well as their acreage expansion on two continents. However now there appeared a downward trend of alcohol consumption in the world, so even special sorts can soon turn to be sufficient. In this connection the dynamic American hop market is already facing some problems. EU hop producers have become more cautious, they are not racing to exceed the demand and look forward with more confidence, judging by the contract terms.
Hop Market in RussiaGermany still dominates the Russian market, yet over the recent two years one has been able observe a continuous success of Czech hop suppliers. Their expansion and growing popularity of hops from the United States became the drivers of supplies growth in 2016 despite the preceding modest harvest crop in the EU, as well as the factor of relative stability in 2017. In this connection, in 2017, the ratio of the varieties continued to shift towards the aroma ones, and the supplies of Magnum hop and other alpha varieties were reduced. However, the import of bitter hop pellets is partially replaced by extracts, especially from the major beer manufacturers. Total volumes of alpha acid supplies, according to our estimation, decreased by approximately 5% and returned to the level of 2015. Barth Haas Group continues dominating the hop products market; HVG also increased its weight. At the same time, Morris Hanbury significantly reduced the supplies in 2017.
The real thing?
Peroni Nastro Azzurro is the latest premium European lager brand to be brewed under licence in Australia. It joins Stella Artois, Kronenbourg and Carlsberg (all of which are brewed here by Foster’s), Heineken and Beck’s (brewed by Lion Nathan) and Grolsch (brewed, like Peroni, by Pacific Beverages, a joint venture between Australia’s Coca-Cola Amatil and the giant multinational SABMiller).
Most everyday beer drinkers are blissfully unaware that their favourite fancy “imported” lager is brewed down the road rather than in some romantic European city. But some passionate beer drinkers think these “fake imports” are a disgrace: not only do the local brews taste different, say the critics, but the way they’re packaged and marketed borders on the downright misleading.
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Anthony d’Anna found out the hard way that his favourite Italian beer had changed. “The family went out to dinner late last year and, being good Italians, ordered Nastro Azzurro like we always do. But when I tasted the beer I thought, hold on, this doesn’t taste right. It was only when I looked really carefully at the back label that I realised it was brewed here under licence. I couldn’t believe it.”
The d’Anna family owns a suburban bottle shop in Melbourne, and Anthony decided, after what he calls his “fake Peroni” experience, that he would only sell real, Italian-brewed Nastro Azzurro. And to do that he would have to rely on parallel imports: small batches of beer brought in by businesses other than the big breweries that have the official licence to distribute the European brands.
Parallel importing of beer isn’t illegal but it is a grey area, accounting for between 10 and 20 per cent of the market for premium beer, so the practice is particularly loathed by the big breweries.
D’Anna has also set up a blog calling for people to avoid “fake imports” and drink the “real thing” instead. It’s not only the difference in taste that annoys him: according to d’Anna, when Pacific Beverages changed from importing Peroni to producing it locally, they didn’t tell their retail customers that what they’re now selling wasn’t quite the same as what they were selling.
This was confirmed by the experience of my local independent wine merchant. “Late last year I noticed the Peroni that Pac Bev, our regular suppliers, were selling me tasted different,” said the store manager (who asked not to be named). The retailer was not informed that the beer was now locally brewed. So he started stocking the parallel import stuff instead. “And you know what? We found we can buy the real imported stuff cheaper than the locally brewed version.”
The case against
Anthony d’Anna and my local independent bottle-o are not alone in their outrage. Beer lovers – particularly the online brew-head community – have been arguing about “fake imports” ever since Foster’s and Lion started brewing the big European brands in Australia more than a decade ago.
One of the main complaints is that the locally brewed versions don’t taste as good as the genuine article. There is, of course, only one way to put this to the test – which is why I organised my own tasting (see breakout, opposite).
Another complaint is that the way the brewed-under-licence beers are packaged and sold can easily lead the casual consumer to assume the beer was indeed imported. Peroni’s labels are all written in Italian; the Beck’s packaging describes it as the “No.1 German Bier”; Kronenbourg is “La Premiere Biere Francaise” – and so on. This isn’t helped by the fact that these locally brewed brands often appear on restaurant wine lists under “imported beers”, and that the beer fridge marked “Imports” at my local Dan Murphy’s is full of Australian-made Peroni, Grolsch, Carlsberg, Heineken...
No wonder the issue has attracted the interest of the Australian Consumers’ Association, publishers of Choice Magazine. “We are very keen that there is full transparency in country-of-origin labelling,” Choice spokesperson Christopher Zinn told me. “And at the moment, that transparency is not straightforward with these beer brands.”
The case in favour
The big breweries – and quite a few brew-head bloggers – point out that the locally made “international” brands are made under the supervision of the European parent company and should, therefore, be identical in flavour profile to the imported versions.
“The Peroni we make here goes through up to 200 tests to ensure its quality,” says Peter McLoughlin, CEO of Pacific Beverages, local brewer of Peroni Nastro Azzurro. “We import ingredients that the brewmaster at Peroni believes are crucial. We use local malts that meet their specifications. And every batch we brew is sent back to Italy for testing by a tasting panel of 12 before it is approved.”
The strongest argument for brewing locally, though, is that it ensures a much fresher product than a beer that has to be shipped halfway around the world. “Beer is best the day after it leaves the brewery,” says McLoughlin. “Part of the problem with having to import beer to Australia is that it crosses the equator and you can get oxidation and degradation if the beer isn’t handled properly. That’s why we have such a big problem with parallel importing: the consumer just can’t be sure that what they’re buying has been subjected to the same quality controls as we are able to bring.”
Another good reason for brewing locally, says McLoughlin, is that it enables the brewer to sell the brand on tap in pubs. “Twenty-five per cent of the ¬premium beer market here is ¬consumed in draught format. Importing kegs of Peroni is not feasible, so brewing draught Peroni here helps us build the brand substantially.” And once the brand is big enough, says McLoughlin, the cost advantage to the brewer of producing a beer locally – as opposed to shipping it out ready-made – can be “significant”.
But no matter how fresh a locally brewed “international” beer is, or how similar it might taste to the imported version, there is still the issue of authenticity. “This is the flipside of globalisation,” says Christopher Zinn. “A beer brewed under licence might be chemically the same as the brand brewed in Europe. But beer is a cultural product as much as anything. If a consumer chooses to buy an Italian beer, they are entitled to expect it comes from Italy.”
Or, as Anthony d’Anna puts it: “Stella brewed here might taste fresher, it might even taste better – but it’s not Stella!”
18 Feb. 2011